Cinque Terre, Italy

A bit off the beaten path, Cinque Terre, Italy is a place everyone must see before they are no longer able to self-ambulate. "Cinque Terre" translates to "five lands" or five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Manarola, Corniglia and Riomaggiore. Connected only by train or walking trails, these quaint villages rest on descending cliffs which terminate in the Ligurian Sea below. Just south of Genoa, Cinque Terre is hailed as the most picturesque area along this northern stretch of the Italian Riviera.

After exiting the Mediterranean highway, you drive very slowly (25 mph maximum) on a small and switchback infested two lane road, first going up a mountain and then partially back down. Upon descending, the road gradually narrows as both sides are laden with parked cars - halfway on the road, halfway in the grassy almost non-existent shoulder. "Why are all these cars here?" and "Where are the people?" are the most asked questions at this point unless, of course, you have been to Cinque Terre before.

In this cluster of five villages, cars are forbidden. The reasons for this vary - asking three locals, I received three different answers: 1.) Car exhaust chokes the air and taints the pastel painted row houses. 2.) The descent is too steep to trust the brakes on foreign cars. 3.) With so many tourists meandering up and down the streets, automobiles create a potential for disaster. Your options are to park (and pay), if you're lucky enough to find a spot, in the small designated parking lots before entering a village. Or you can park your car on the side of the road without paying. Do make sure you take everything that you will need for the day with you! Entering any of the villages requires a walk down a nearly 25 degree angled road and consequently, a walk back up at that angle to return to your car.

As Cinque Terre is a haven for hikers, most of you would arrive appropriately shoed. If you're going for the beach, water shoes are recommended as the coast is mostly large volcanic rock formations and huge boulders. Flip-flop shoes are definitely not advised for trekking up and down Cinque Terre.

Entering the village, the first thing you'll probably notice are the small, three wheeled trucks - large enough for only one person in the front and a crate or two of fish, flowers or wine in the bed. With the exception of specific large load delivery trucks, these "Ape50" vehicles are the only ones allowed to navigate the streets.

The villages of Cinque Terre are flanked by both hillside vineyards and the sea; the interior nestled with shops, restaurants and markets. The smell of salt water, freshly scaled fish, roasted garlic, coffee, perfumes and recently cut lemons subtly caress your senses while you look around. The Italians are a very passionate people and this is just as evident in Cinque Terre as it is in Rome, Venice or Florence. The Ape50 delivery driver shouts "Buon Giorno!" to the fishmonger one minute and yells flirtatious comments to the café waitress the next. She answers back. All is jolly and extraordinarily beautiful, full of life. It's a perfect world.

If you bring the kiddos in the summer, it's best to aim directly for the water. If the kids are young and not too experienced in swimming, Monterosso al Mare has the beach for them. With ancient small fishing boats anchored in the small cove where the beach is more sandy than rocky, the water is shallow unless, duh, you venture out too far. For the parents and older kids, there is a cemented "platform" where you can try cannonballs, jackknives and flips into the sea. Because the water is so clear, it looks more shallow than it actually is. In any case, make sure you check the depth before you make an actual dive.

Those of you with older, more adventurous swimmers would prefer Manarola. The huge volcanic rocks dotting the cove thrill the kids as they climb 10, 20, 30 or nearly 40 feet before plunging into the water. Just to be safe, an adult should accompany the kids on their climb. (But if you're like me, you just might go catatonic when you reach the top and take 20 minutes to get up the nerve to jump, only after you've stopped hyperventilating. Then buoying out of the water you hear the applause of about 150 onlookers who, for fun, are rating your so called dive in a variety of languages: "That was a bloody six." "Non, c'est cinque!" "No, no. Ocho! " "But she was up there too long. I'd say a three.")

Better yet, go to the back side of the cove to dive and snorkel in the sea. Fish are abundant; water is cool and sunbathing on volcanic rocks is exceptional.

When the swimming/diving/hiking/exploring is finished, it's time to eat. Most, if not all, of the restaurants of Cinque Terre are fantastic. Granted, I haven't tried each one. Keep in mind this is a group of fishing villages, surrounded by vineyards, in Italy. Did I ever mention gardens? Well, they're there as well. Due to all these plusses, it is nearly impossible to have a less than an outstanding meal in Cinque Terre.

The kids want either pizza and gelato or spaghetti and tiramisu, you want linguini with fresh clams and your husband wants the local fish soup, crispy bread and an Italian beer. Where do you go? The answer is just about any trattoria. But experience tells me to recommend Trattoria La Scogliera in Manarola. Dining on the outside patio, everyone's desires are met. Plus, you are recommended to try a half bottle of the local Cinque Terre white wine which is a new one for you. After a chat with the owner, a conversation with the chef, a lesson on the Cinque Terre wine and an exchange of business cards, the dinner is complete.

Unless you're spending the night, the time has come to depart. Start walking. But up this time. I hope you're not wearing flip-flops.

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